Winterizing Your Motorcycle

I have been riding motorcycles since I was 9 years old. My father taught me to ride dirt in the early 1970’s and I never lost the excitement of straddling two wheels. I began riding street back in 1982 (I really don’t feel that old) and have not been without a bike since. I was told that as the years pile up, one gains knowledge with experience. So, here I am writing about one of the things I think I know... the joys of motorcycling. I hope that this monthly column helps out a few of you out there who take the time to read it. And if you have any ideas or questions, please don’t hesitate to suggest or ask.

Since it’s that time of year, I will begin with winterizing your bike (or at least temporarily keeping it happy for 3 or 4 weeks).
Here are a few tips to keep your bike a little healthier during the cold and snowy months, or weeks depending on where you live.
1. Don’t be dirty. Sometimes we put our bikes into slumber after a ride with dirt, dust, bugs and miscellaneous grime from the previous ride still attached to our painted and shiny parts. I know I have not practiced this as much as I should, but it’s a good habit to get into that before you have rolled your bike into the spot it sits, at least take a wet rag and wipe down the whole thing. I usually use a squirt of the bug and tar cleaner for those extra stingy hardened bug guts and little chunks of road that have a death grip on your baby. Use a very soft cloth to initially wipe down varying sections of the bike. Then use a soft dry cloth to wipe off any excess moisture. Micro-fiber cloths usually work best for both these tasks. Finally, if you have the time, do a quick coating of wax to help protect the bike from dust and slop that seeps in when the garage is opened. Or, if you know you won’t be riding for a few weeks, and you have a cover, place it over your pride and joy. When you go to unveil it, it will be that much more satisfying.

Tips to help your bike if you aren’t riding for 2 or 3 months (or longer)
1. Gas Treatment
A. A full gas tank means it’s less likely that condensation will take place inside, and water in your gas is bad whether you have fuel injection or a carbureted engine.
B. Add a little bit of fuel stabilizer to your gas (check the additive label for amounts - you don’t want too add too much).
C. Be sure the fuel petcock is turned off (for carbureted engines).

2. Fresh Oil
A. If you can, change the oil and filter before putting your bike to rest for a few months. Clean oil will not only make you feel better the first time you crank it up to ride, but it also helps coat the engine preventing rust from forming.
B. Make sure the engine is warm before changing the oil. Run it for 5 or so minutes to heat the oil and loosen the dirt and grime that might have settled. After changing the oil and filter, run the engine a few more minutes to circulate the new oil. It’s a good idea to change the filter because it contains about a cup of oil and if you don’t, the grunge inside it will circulate back around.

3. A Simple Charge
A. These days, you don’t really have to worry about the battery, but you can do one or two things to make sure you will have sound juice when you go to crank the engine over. Keeping your battery on a charger of some kind is not necessary but is a good idea.
B. You can add a simple battery charging harness that is attached at the posts of your battery with a type of pigtail plug at the opposite end that will help if you don’t want to remove your seat. The battery tender or charger easily plugs into the pigtail end when your bike is parked. Check your favorite bike shop for the equipment that works best for your make and model.
C. Tenders and Chargers. These are usually better than the trickle chargers as they are usually equipped with a shut off feature so as not to overcharge the battery. They usually range from $30 to $130 depending on simplicity and smartness.

4. Miscellaneous Protective Ideas. A few other points that can help extend the life of your valued two-wheeler.
A. Off the ground. If you happen to have a lift, stick your bike in the air. This takes the pressure off the tires and helps prevent soft of flat spots on the rubber.
B. Dust free. Cover your bike to help keep dust and other air born nasties from sticking to seen and unseen places. Plastic tarps are not advisable. They tend to trap moisture inside. A motorcycle cover specifically made for your bike is the best thing to use, but if you can’t afford one, a bed cover or sheet will work pretty well. This keeps the bike free from dust and allows air to flow and any moisture to evaporate.
C. A bubble. Again, if you can afford one of these, it’s like keeping your prized possession in a mini germ-free and dirt-free museum.
D. Insured? Year round insurance is a plus (I think a must). You never know when that warm day will come about. But this also helps keep your piece of mind in case of (God forbid) fire, flood, or theft.